After two evenings / hotels with no cell nor Internet coverage, we have safely arrived in W Yellowstone, MT, not where we thought we would be today. Daily ride reports follow below. No pictures this time, I am simply too tired to deal with the camera unload and blog placement. Stay tuned, after I get home I will post a link to a picture album. I scored a new camera the day before I left and have been having fun & frustration with it.
Tuesday, Livingston MT to E Glacier MTWoke up to a chili 40 degrees, but completely clear sky. We were a little slow getting on the road this morning, finally rolling a bit after 9:00AM. Headed out of Livingston on I90 to catch our road north. Once on that small road, it was a lot of straight and flat with a slight breeze for a while. The longer we road, the stronger the wind got and the temperature was not coming up. It was a little boring but the farm / ranch country was lush with green.
We stopped after an hour in White Sulfur Springs, MT for breakfast at Dori’s café. A very small town café with excellent food and service and lots of hunting trophies on the walls. While there, two other riders stopped in and we all chatted. One was a guy from Austin, TX on his way to Fairbanks – solo. Another chap was a Canuck trying out our US national parks. We both added more clothing at this stop as it had taken copious amounts of hot coffee and sitting in a warm café to warm our bones. And I had 3 layers on already!
Not far out of town, we entered Lewis & Clark national forest. This was the highlight of today’s ride and it was beautiful. The road was incredible with a fair amount of soft twisties. No wind in here, which we were soon to discover, was a blessing. We passed a ski area that looked fun as well.
The road out of the forest climbed up on to the plains and the fun (not!) began. The wind came at our faces with fervor and stuck with us the next several hours. It got stiffer as the day progressed and we never saw another tree. Wide open plains as far as the eye could see and very strong winds in our face or to our side. Long, painful hours in the saddle – never thought we would finish our day.
We pulled a brief rest stop in an in-town rest area in Choteau, Mt. We spent a few minutes here talking to another Canuck rider on his way home from our parks. Funny, but here in town, not a bit of wind.
In Browning, MT, we stopped at the Plains Indian Museum for some real historical treats. Though small, the displays and historical data were amazing and stunning to the eyes. It was also nice to get off the bike for a brief spell.
Finally pulled into East Glacier, MT around 4:30 and found a funky little local place to hang out helmets. Got some refreshments, walked about town (all 3 blocks of it) and are ready to rest our weary bodies for another day. Tomorrow will be “tourist in the park”.
Wednesday, tourist in Glacier National ParkBoth riders a bit tired, we slept in a little and hit the road about 9:00AM. Headed to St. Mary, MT down a nice, twisty road. Speed limit was posted at 25 MPH, but we motored on as best we could. No wind, clear sky, temperatures were coming up! It was a nice ride over.
Entered the east entrance of the park and were immediately presented with St. Mary Lake, a glacier lake 9 miles long and 400+ feet deep. Up into the park, we started seeing absolutely stunning mountain vistas. Although still the Rockies, these are entirely differently shaped hills than I see in Colorado – much steeper and more jagged. Lots of snow still up high, stunning scenery.
We drove in the east side about 13 miles to the road closure – the “Going to the Sun Road” pass through the park is still being plowed. Here we had to turn around and back track to East Glacier, MT, and take the south route around the park to the west entrance.
We entered the West Glacier entrance and headed up. The road stays flat in the valley floor for many miles. Upon entrance, one drives by Lake McDonald for miles, another glacier lake that is many miles long and very deep and narrow. Saw the McDonald Falls, which were incredible.
Finally we start the climb up the “Going to the Sun Road” and it is indeed an engineering marvel. Up and up until the road construction stop. We wait and chat with folks and finally get our turn to proceed. We were able to get a couple hundred yards beyond the Weeping Wall to the pass closure. Today is Wednesday; the entire pass will be open on Friday – foiled by 2 short miles of unplowed mountain pass. Guess this is all the excuse I need to return someday.
We road back to the west park entrance and found a very nice cabin to bunk up for the night, right on the Middle Fork of the Flathead river. We sat outside and enjoyed some malted beverages and called it a day.
Tomorrow we start heading south for homes. We get a full day tomorrow together and then part company on Friday, mid-day. I have a long way down to get home. Our bikes are running good. And today, for the first time since I departed Winter Park 6 days ago, it finally warmed up enough that I could turn off my grip heaters and remove the liners from my ride gear! You will never know how good both felt! For the first time since I left home 8 days ago, I actually got hot today in my gear. What a pleasant change!
Thursday - W Glacier MT to W Yellowstone MTOur original plan for the day was to ride to Three Forks, MT, a distance of about 295 miles. It rained during the night and everything was wet when we got rolling, so I started with the rain gear on to prevent splash wetness and hold off the chill. It wasn't long before that gear came off as the sun emerged and there was no wind.
We headed out of W Glacier and entered the Swan Valley drive. This runs along several long, narrow glacier lakes through the forest for over 100 miles. The smells and sights were off the charts, the road was perfect and we moved fast. We stopped in the middle of nowhere for breakfast after 100 miles of riding in less than 2 hours. We made good time all the way to Helena.
In Helena, we realized it was only 1:00 PM and were about an hour from our planned destination. Maybe we could ride a little more in the day? As we were departing Helena on the east side, the Blue Angels were taking off right beside us and doing stunts immediately to our left. What an incredible feeling to be fast flying on the bikes and the "fast boys" were flying stunts right on the deck beside us!
As we turned south, the famous Montana winds came back to make our drive challenging. We finally reached Three Forks and took a break in a truck stop parking lot. The wind was blowing so stiffly that it almost knocked my bike off of its side stand! We waited out the worst of it and headed to W Yellowstone. The wind was fierce the whole way - mostly in our face. Hard to maintain speed and the handling was challenging. But we made 400+ miles for the day.
Tomorrow, after an hour of riding together, we split and head our separate ways. Will be a sad departure. My partner will be in his bed tomorrow night, I should be home Sunday.